This article was originally published in Boro Magazine in February 2018.
Although QWNS cafe’s motto is “Start your day at the end of the line,” the new spot’s offerings can feed and fuel residents all day.
Two Astoria-raised hospitality veterans and friends, Dino Philippou and Tim Pappas, partnered to develop this fast-casual organic cafe at the base of the Astoria-Ditmars stop. The name, a play off the train line, which changed when the W was added in 2016, touches on the cafe’s community-driven mission.
Philippou said he and Pappas created this cafe to give back to the neighborhood and offer something new.
“We just believed that we need something like this because of the demographic,” Philippou said. “This concept is right for the community."
The cafe is fast-casual and serves health-conscious breakfast, entrees, baked goods, coffee and to-go items.
It had its soft opening Monday, Jan. 15, but the two owners started developing the cafe about two years ago. The friends each have more than 20 years experience in hospitality. Philippou owned Cavo, a nightclub on 31st Avenue, which closed about a year ago, and Pappas held leadership roles at upscale eateries in Manhattan like Avra Estiatorio and Estiatorio Milos.
Last March, Chef Michael Romano, who owns a restaurant consulting group, joined the team to develop a wholesome and refined menu. His pastry and fine dining background are evident in descriptions of each item on the chalk wall behind the cafe’s counter. Many of the carefully crafted components have unusual but tasty twists.
"Every tiny little flavor and texture has to be there for a reason and developed properly,” Romano said.
He said he wants to give people food they feel good about, and that he cooks from the heart.
Some of the dishes incorporate housemade ingredients, like almond butter, greek yogurt, croissants (vegan and regular), and multigrain bread. Some options are influenced by Astoria’s Greek presence, and there are plenty of vegan and gluten-free offerings.
Romano said he is very careful about cross-contamination to keep customers safe. He also tries to use local ingredients as much as possible.
The coffee provider, Joe Coffee, is one of the cafe’s local partners. QWNS is the first restaurant in the borough to serve the Red Hook-based brew, and has the exclusive license in Queens, Romano said.
He added that the cafe’s team includes some of the best baristas in New York, who will make pour-overs, iced coffee and cold brew in addition to other classics. He said they ensure the coffee is balanced and brewed properly.
“There’s so much that goes into it,” Romano said. “You can taste the difference.”
For those who expect only coffee, a step inside QWNS makes it clear the cafe has more to offer. The dining setup itself seems to bring neighbors together, with close seating at few small distressed metal tables, a communal table and seating alongside the window looking out onto 31st. A custom-painted map of the N/W line overs one wall, and the others are blank, for now. Romano said the team wants to fill them with local artists’ work in the future.
I came in with a friend for lunch on the first Saturday the cafe was open to find groups of friends, couples, families and individuals filling out the seats. I ordered the vyro, Romano’s vegan version of a Gyro, and tried the chicken sandwich, which Romano said are two of the most popular items.
My Greek inspired meal, one of the four sandwiches offered, wasn’t quite like a gyro, but it hit the spot with crunchy chia-encrusted eggplant and a spicy tahini kick rolled inside soft house-made scallion naan. To Romano, the point is that it is different, since customers can get a gyro anywhere.
The chicken sandwich tasted incredibly fresh and was complemented by kale pesto and fluffy focaccia bread.
The two other sandwiches were a bison burger, chosen because the meat is leaner than typical beef, and an organic turkey burger with goat cheese. Romano said it’s hard to find a nice juicy turkey burger, so he created one.
If you eat in, food is presented on a wooden board, bringing an element of the kitchen to the table.
Other items on the menu include acai bowls featuring Greek yogurt and almond butter made in-house, grain bowls, avocado toast, sides like a head of cauliflower, roasted sweet potatoes and lemon-herb garlic potatoes. and breakfast sandwiches.
Romano said customers are already calling ahead for the breakfast sandwiches made on housemade croissants with frittata, turkey bacon, aged Swiss and tomato and onion jam.
“Our egg sandwiches are serious,” he said.
The cafe also has an alluring selection of treats, like savory pastries called gougères, and brightly-colored desserts. Romano said while he has always loved cooking, his background is in pastries. He started his first job in a bakery at 14, won the show Sweet Genius on the Food Network at 21 and ran the dessert program for Long Island’s largest restaurant group.
I tired two healthy but addicting cookies: blackberry corn cookie which, had a pie-like, chewy fruit interior, and the flavorful whole wheat chocolate chip flax and sea salt.
More decadent desserts were a take on an oreo — two light, crunchy chocolate sandwiching airy, whipped along butter filling, and a perfectly rich honey custard on pistachio base. I could tell Romano avoids processed ingredients, like he said, — I didn’t feel a sugar overload after my indulgence.
Be prepared to see different options n the bakery section every time, since Romano said he rotates the dessert offerings. He calls the cafe’s dessert selection his playground.
Plans for QWNS Cafe’s future include a 2,000 square-foot backyard slated to be ready by summer, beer and wine once the license comes through, cold-pressed juices, brunch, and chef-pairings and popups hosted by the team’s network of food industry mavens.
Romano said he wants to take suggestions, and even name items for customers and cook up dishes or desserts upon request. A new regular chatted with Romano at the dessert case, and the chef offered to bake something for him, to be ready later that day.
“I want people to feel at home,” Romano said.